JC in India

Positioned on top of the four elephants, Berilia, Tubul, Great T’Phon, and Jerakeen, who are in turn riding on top of the Great A’Tuin the Giant Star Turtle, is the land of Discworld. And at the heart of Discworld is the bustling city that is Ankh-Morpork. Although in truth it is not technically at the real ‘heart’, as such hearts would be nestled within the bodies of the aforementioned Turtle and Elephants.  But certainly the city could be described as being a little ‘south central’ on Discworld and is where the great and the good of the ever moving, space faring land come to congregate and, for want of a better description, engage in all sorts of mischief and carnage.

Also in truth, and probably unsurprisingly (spoiler alert) Discworld is not a real place, but the creation of the late Sir Terry Pratchett, probably the finest comedic fantasy author the world (both real and Disc) has ever known. Sadly, Sir Terry died in 2015 having suffered in his later years from a rare form of Alzheimer’s disease. But his novels live on, and the capers that he tells of life in his fictional world are known far and wide in this, our real world. They describe a somewhat chaotic, occasionally unhinged, and often downright calamitous world, all of which functions through the disorder to the relief (and often disbelief) of its citizens.

Over the years I have read a few of these books and have just finished reading his autobiography (posthumously written by his long-time assistant) which so well blends stories of Terry’s life in the real world, and his vision and translation of such into the stories he so masterfully tells in his Discworld.

And, as I was reading this and immersing myself into his world again, I couldn’t help but think of….

I will let you finish that yourself. It would be disingenuous of me to put such obvious words to print.

It is said that much of Terry’s inspiration came from diverse cultures and religions and that amongst other channels, Hindu Gods and their stories served as fodder for some of his material. I cannot help but think that the vibrancy and dynamics of India would also have given him material to play with. As I revisit his books and read ones I have not read before, I cannot help but see subtle similarities in situations and perspective. Delhi and Ankh-Morpork, two cities inextricably linked, where fact and fiction are mischievously intertwined.

But away from such delightful fantasy, life in this world continues.

Today is a holiday day for Eid al-Fitr (Eid Mubarak to those celebrating!). Ok, technically Eid was declared yesterday, but my company have given today as a leave day for the occasion.

Being a Thursday, this makes for a potentially long weekend, if taking the Friday off, which quite a few people are doing. Although, given the last-minute style here, along with the ‘holidays are for wimps’ perspective, as of yesterday when I asked a few people their plans, they still would not commit to taking Friday off (“in case anything is needed to be done” …). I even suggested to my assistant that she take Friday off and enjoy a nice four-day break. She laughed at me. Genuinely. Didn’t help when I told her I was serious, she still thought my suggestion to be quite hilarious. 

The last-minute nature, and the continual chop and change is just a part of life here. A week on Monday (11 days from now) there is a conference in Denmark which I am going to, and over the last few months I have been pushing the team who are also supposed to be going to get themselves sorted. As of yesterday, three of the five people going have yet to book any travel, and one has only just started the process of seeking internal approvals to attend. I had my flights booked about two months back. 

These last couple of months I have also been more solo, following the departure of my two main compatriot’s and this has afforded me the chance to be a little more reflective on the time I am spending here. I have taken again to more proactively observing life and its way of ticking here. I make a point of watching the world go by when going to and from the office. Before Gordon left, I was routinely travelling with him, and so would usually be engaged in car banter each way to work. Now I have gone back to ordering an Uber about 9.15am each morning, and it is the norm that by 9.20am I am on the way. They are plentiful around my neighbourhood. Then coming home, I have implemented a practice of prebooking a “Blu Smart” – an e-taxi service which is reliable, and drivers are employed so cannot cancel trips. I order one to arrive for the end of the day at the office, and so the routine has been to head out at around 6.10pm straight into a waiting car (which is usually more modern and higher standard than Uber can sometimes dish up). It works well, and this little daily transport routine has become the new normal.

Also, this routine now includes just simply watching out the window each way, observing the comings and goings of life in Ankh-Morpork Delhi.

The hustle and bustle is everywhere. Each day the chaos on the roads never fails to impress (probably an inaccurate use of that word to be fair). Cars going literally the wrong way on main carriage ways. Reversing into oncoming traffic off slip roads because they decide late to go the other way. The sudden dash in multiple directions at busy junctions. Lining up on the left to turn right, while those on the right contra with a desire to turn left, and the ensuing mele that arises when the light goes green. 

There is one specific junction I often pass (between Vasant Kunj and Mahipalpur if your interest level stretches in that direction) where I recently spent thirty minutes in complete gridlock trying to turn onto the main road from the side road I was coming from. The lights had failed, and at the best of times this is a busy junction anyway. But with no filter, none of the main road traffic would let anyone in. I honestly cannot recall ever seeing anyone let someone out in front of them in nearly two and a half years of plying Indian roads. It just isn’t done here. As a result, nobody could get out of the junction, and not until the police arrived could the rapidly increasing volume of waiting traffic start to move. 

Somewhat amusingly at the same junction a few days before I had witnessed a bus unable to get a break to pull out. Then one of the irate passengers get off the bus and took it upon himself to stand in front of traffic arms waving and doing his very best to stop cars, until the bus finally managed to edge out. Then he jumped back onboard and off the bus merrily went.

And again, at the same junction a few days before that I remember sinking deep into my seat in embarrassment as I watched a coach full of what is best described as ‘western tourists’ all leaning out with cameras pointing and very evidently photographing what to them was an example of Indian road craziness. Seeing that made me realise just how used to that style of traffic I am. I genuinely felt embarrassed as the locals could all see they were being watched with a ‘look at how mad that is’ eye. I could understand if some of them felt aggrieved at being indirectly the focus of such perceived hilarity. Hence my attempts to become invisible, as I relate as Indian now in day-to-day life, even though I do not look Indian.

So, I am making the most of observing India again, although now through a much more informed and understanding lens.

I am used to the power cuts (there have been three already today). I am used to being careful with food and water.

I still see the poverty. The families living under the bridge, ramshackle tents being their homes. The main slum I pass on the way to work, with the little children running around playing amidst the flimsy shacks they call home. The laundry hanging up on wires stretched out between telegraph poles on the roadside.

The cows often mooching along the centre of the road, daring traffic to get out of their way. The street dogs lazily watching the world go by, occasionally barking at unfamiliar passers-by. The monkeys, monkeying around.

I also see the wealth. The occasional Bentley, or high-end Range Rover driving with a distinct swagger among the cheaper cars which dominate the traffic in the main. The guys with their designer shades, and tailored clothes, oozing bravado as they walk. The ladies with their similarly well-cut clothes, expensive phones, and designer handbags in hand. The wealth (whether real or pretend) being exhibited unashamedly.

The accepted coexistence of such extremes of wealth and poverty.

The cohabitation of these worlds paints the tapestry of this country. The colours combining in all different ways bringing life to the diversity of this place. The Holi festival of a few weeks ago being a visual representation of such, with the fervour and frenzy the festival brings to the streets. The colours being thrown, the water guns targeting innocent walkers as the children behind giggle away. All in good nature.

And it is all this that makes India, India. The rich tapestry of diversity, inclusion, poverty, wealth, animals, smells, sights, sounds, colours – all combining into one proud nation. There is nowhere else like it. 

And in these periods of reflection and observance, I am more aware that my remaining time here is limited. I need to make the most of this final period. Jen made what is expected to be her last trip out to India to visit me a couple weeks back. We spent a weekend in Amritsar to see two of the ‘must sees’ of India mindful of making the most of it while we can. One being the Golden Temple, the epicentre of the Sikh religion (which is an amazing sight).

And the other the border crossing between India and Pakistan just a short drive from the city. Here the daily spectacle of the closing of the border, draws crowds from both sides who sit in specially erected stadiums to watch the guards perform the ritual.

Whipping the crowds into a frenzy with chants of “Hindustan”, “Pakistan” being hurled across the border at each other in mostly good-natured banter. The final handshake between the lead Indian and Pakistani guards, and the slamming of the gates shut for the night, being the ultimate culmination of the civilities. 

In complete contrast to this, we then spent four days down in the Maldives. Being only four-hours from Delhi, and relatively inexpensive flights compared to coming from the UK, it made for good reason to add it to the “see it while still here” list. The islands did not disappoint. Jet skiing alongside Dolphins, Suba diving with a Turtle (one significantly smaller than the Great A’Tuin though) and snorkelling straight from the room made for a great short break.

The seaplane ride between Male and the Island resort was also part of the experience.

While it is a more exclusive place to visit admittedly, it was certainly worthwhile as a once in a lifetime place to see. It also gave me the chance to get some practice in. If you know you know.

Back to Delhi, and back to work following a fun week. I expect now it is over and done with for visitors, and the rest of my time in India will be served out by myself until my time here concludes.

I am travelling again tomorrow evening (overnight out to Asia) so will work from home for the day beforehand. I am at a point now where my workload is reducing. In part as a function of having got things in place to tick along as they should during my first two years here, and in other part because as I start to head towards the final period there is less I can do for longer term focus. The whole purpose of my position is to bring expertise and offer support and advice as needed to the business. That doesn’t necessarily translate to being rushed off my feet all day. Another factor which I have described previously is the inherent desire of the local Indian teams to stand on their own two feet, and being candid, with some there is a desire not to have help from a foreigner. I am very sensitive to this, and certainly do not push myself into situations where I know the local team seek to prove themselves. I just ensure I subtly provide a certain gravity to influence their actions, sometimes without them even realising. It is all part of the need to be culturally sensitive and is something I have for sure learned a lot of these last few years.

As for exactly when I shall leave India, I expect that to be determined by the end of April. As I have said before, my contract runs to the end of this year, and I have been very open from the start that in the absence of anything changing I would leave then. I believe it is now highly likely I shall go sooner to move onto the next adventure, as I would need to leave here sooner to jump on that opportunity. Assuming it all materialises as expected then more warm weather awaits (and no it is not Saudi!).

Now though I am focused on the next two weeks where I shall be mostly travelling away from India, except for a brief transition next Wednesday night / Thursday morning. In my journey back to the UK later next week I shall be bringing the last of my ‘extra stuff’ back, and this will leave me with just a couple of cases of belongings here, so when I do make the final flight out it will be a simple journey and easy to do. Everything else here will be donated to my trusty team of two guards (Vikas and Pushpender), and maid (Sushmi).

While it is likely things will change shortly, for now Great A’Tuin continues her voyage. On her back rides the hopes and dreams of a proud land. For all its foibles and challenges, the residents of Discworld are at home there, and as incredulous as they are to their surroundings, and healthy doses of salt are required for the regular pinches needed, they continue making the best of what life has dished them.

Just like India.

Except for the bit about riding on a giant space Turtle. I think.